Four days Dorgali
We decided to spend four days on the east coast of Sardinia at the end of september 2012. We booked a room (half pension, with breakfast and dinner) in an agriturismo near Dorgali. Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu is located on the mountainside above Cala Gonone with a magnificent view over the coast and the sea, Cala Gonone and Dorgali are at just ten minutes drive from there. The agriturismo is also a camping site and it was even at the end of the season visited a lot. For dinner a fixed menu is served with products of the farm, each day a variation.
Coming from Amsterdam we booked a flight to Alghero where we spent the night. The next day, on sunday, we travelled to Dorgali in our rental car, a Cinquecento. On the way we stopped at a few sites and in the village of Oliena where we had a cup of coffee in a bar. Oliena is situated at the foot of the Supramonte, an impressive mountain range that is characteristic of that part of Sardinia. Oliena is a typical inland Sardinian village even though it is not far from the coast. We have seen some of the splendid murales that breath the pride of the Sardinian people.
Later that day we arrived in Dorgali where just then Cortes Apertas was being held. This manifestation is held each weekend in autumn everytime in another village of the province of Nuoro so that visitors can taste the local produce and see the hidden treasures of the otherwise closed courtyards (Cortes) of the towns. It is possible to drink a glass of cannonau (grenache) or taste the local pecorino, salsiccia and dolci made of ricotta and honey. Often in the evening there is folklore music and dance.
That monday we joined an excursion to the Gola Gorropu with a guide of the coop Ghivine. We could have chosen also for the caves of Tiscali but we wanted to see this famous canyon that cuts through the mountains of the Gennargentu. It turned out the excursion was not that easy, first we travelled by landrover up the mountain along a sinuous trail, then we descended the steep slope on foot to reach the entrance of the canyon. Usually the river flows underground, only when it rains the canyon becomes a dangerous place to be, however the boulders and rocks on our path were quite large and we had to climb them using hands and feet, elbows and knees to get only a few hundred meters into the Gola Gorropu. The more experienced excursionists can go even further but we stopped at a convenient point and returned up the steep slope to the landrover.
When we returned to the landrover we were offered a lunch on the top of a mountain ridge with a view of the valley of the rio Flumineddu, a great experience with the wind in our face, the cheese and sausage, the typical bread of Dorgali and a bottle of cannonau. We had a particular good time with our group of four Italians, a French couple, ourselves and the guide and we enjoyed the excursion very much.
The next day, Tuesday, we drove around the area of Dorgali. First we visited the nuragic village of Serra Orrios and the Tombe of the Giants s'Ena de Thomes. We finished our morning tour at the natural sources of su Gologone, the water flows out of a large crevice in the mountain which is said to be more than 135 meters deep and of a stunning limpidity, it is not possible to capture it's beauty in a single picture. Around the source there is a small park with picknick tables, it is a true cool oasis of peace and quite, in contrast to the surrounding dry and hot lands.
In the afternoon we strolled through Dorgali and visited the small but interesting archaeological museum. When we returned to the agriturismo we decided to walk down to the archaeological site of Nuraghe Mannu, around the nuraghe are many remains of roman times and we had already seen the interesting finds in the museum, including roman pottery and tiles. It must have been a flourishing community in roman times. The nuraghe is situated at 200 meters above the sea, above the beach of Cala Fuili. The panoramic view is astonishing and we were lucky that that day there was a particular light.
The last day we drove down to Cala Gonone and after a short stroll along the boulevard we took the ferry to Cala Luna. From Cala Gonone you can reach various beaches, all of extraordinary beauty: Cala Luna, Cala Sisine, Cala Mariolu, Cala Goloritzè. You can also go by ferry to the caves of Bue Marino. We choose Cala Luna, it was a short trip and the weather was good with some wind, but would get worse in the afternoon. In half an hour we were ashore on the beach of Cala Luna. We walked around, tasted the seawater (there was a strong current that pulled at your legs) made a lot of pictures and returned after an hour to Cala Gonone. Here we took lunch with a pizza looking out over the water, watching the boats pass by while the wind increased in strength.
The food at the agriturismo was delicious, even more the wine, the locally produced cannonau. The camping site was still occupied with tents and campers, mostly couples without children that do not depend on school holidays. We met a German couple and a young Dutch couple. We can vividly recommend this agriturismo for a pleasant stay in the vicinity of Dorgali. There is a lot to do and we certainly will return here for another excursion, maybe to Tiscali or along the coast walking to one of those splendid beaches.