Journey to Sardinia 2010, part 1
In the month of june of 2010 we payed a visit to Sardinia. Starting from the airport of Eindhoven in the Netherlands we landed at Fertilia Airport near Alghero. The first night we had arranged a B&B near the airport, B&B La Rucchetta. The first day we visited two sites near Alghero: the necropolis of Anghelu Ruju and the nuraghe site of Palmavera. Both sites are important archaeological sites for Sardinia, the first because it is a large necropolis of 38 graves ranging from the neolithic to the bronze age, similar to the Domus de Janas, the second is an important nuragic site near the sea.
The same day we proceeded to Bosa along the coast line, a very exciting panoramic road that shows Sardinia in all it's roughness and the beauty of it's sea. We stayed about a week at Bosa, in a very cosy hotel at Bosa Marina, Hotel Stella Maris. Bosa is a particularly nice town, with a very specific architecture that reminds of Liguria, and the large castle of the Malaspina that guards the route inland. Bosa has it's origins in punic-roman towns, when it was located more inland near the church of San Pietro Extramuros. We found an excellent restaurant where we tried out the different menus based on land and seafood, but also some traditional Sardinian dessert called Seadas. The restaurant is called Corso 82 and is located in one of the old buildings of the towncentre.
Bosa was our starting point for our morning excursions. We try to keep our outside activity to the mornings, and when the sun starts to shine and the heat becomes unbearable we find ourselves a shady spot to have some lunch. The afternoon is then dedicated to either the beach or the town to do some shopping and looking around. Our first excursion brought us to the large and impressive nuraghe site of Santu Antine near Torralba. It has impressed me most because of the almost delicate and refined architecture for such a large massive looking construction. The next stop was the likewise impressive necropolis of Sant'Andrea Priu near Bonorva, just a few miles from Santu Antine. The largest grave of Sant'Andrea Priu, since the neolithic in uise, had been transformed first to a Roman gravechamber with affrescoes and then to a Byzantine church with medieval affrescoes. This site is definitely worthwhile visiting.
Our next excursion was directed at the site of Tamuli near Macomer. This site consists of three giants tombs, a large nuraghe and village and six menhirs. Three of the menhirs have female tracts, breasts, while the other three would represent phallus symbols (the male side). This site and the next we were advised to visit are maintained by a group of young people that are part of a cooperation. Many sites in Sardinia have been given to cooperations that exploit and maintain the sites on behalf of the local administrations. Tourism this way can be a source of income. The second site we visited was that of Filigosa, the site that gave the name to one of the neolithic periods of Sardinia, the culture of Abealzu-Filigosa. Here there are four Domus de Janas, grave chambers cut in the rock of an impressiveness that will leave you stunned. It is not so much that there are gravechambers, but the fact that Sardinia counts so many gravechambers and so many nuraghi is what makes the island so mysterious.