Itinerary Bosa - Valle dei Nuraghi - Macomer

Bosa is a small town on the Sardinian westcoast. It lies on the only navigable river on the island, the river Temo. Historically the town has always been an important port voor the mid-west of Sardinia, not only for the surrounding regions but also for the interior, the highland plateau's and valleys around Macomer and Torralba. In fact the large number of nuraghi in the valley of the Nuraghi and on the Campeda plateau indicate relative intense economic activity since the bronze age and in roman times. It comes therefore not as a suprise that Bosa already was known as a port in phoenician-punic times. Until the nineteenth century Bosa remained an important center for the tanning of hides, along the river the old tanneries and warehouses are still there. A railway connects Bosa to Macomer in memory of it's importance, now only used in the summer season as a tourist attraction running the trenino verde.

The itinerary described here starts at Bosa in the direction of the valley of the Nuraghi. From there the itinerary passes through Bonorva and Macomer back to Bosa. The region is rich in prehistorical and historical monuments, mainly bronze age and medieval. The itinerary passes through typical Sardinian landscapes, hills and plateau's formed by volcanic activity where agriculture is still the main occupation. The region has more interesting sites and places, not all are mentioned here, just a few highlights that are worth visiting. Bosa is chosen as starting point and the route finishes here, for the interesting spots of Bosa see the previous itinerary Alghero-Bosa-Oristano.

Starting in Bosa the road climbs the side of the valley of the Temo with magnificent panoramic views of the entire valley towards the interior. Once at Suni the itinerary turns left in the direction of Pozzomaggiore. Along this road you will find the great nuraghe Nuraddeo of Suni and a little further in the face of the hillside along a small river the necropolis of Domus de Janas called Chirisconis. From Pozzomaggiore the itinerary proceeds in the direction of Giave, from there it follows a short while the ss131 to the junction at Thiesi. As an alternative it is possible to go in the direction of Bonorva, passing by the medieval church of San Nicolò di Trullas, and take the ss131 north from the junction at Bonorva to arrive at Thiesi. From Thiesi there are directions to the church of San Pietro di Sorres at Borutta.

The church of San Pietro di Sorres is a fine example of medieval architecture with Tuscan influences (Pisan). The church is part of a monastery and is built on top of the hill in the twelfth century AD. In the interior the effect of the use of dark and light stones is beautiful. It is possible to make use of guided tours to visit the church and the monastery.

From San Pietro di Sorres it is only a short drive to what may be called the most stunning of bronze age constructions, the nuraghe Santu Antine near Torralba, in the valley of the Nuraghi. This complex nuraghe consists of a central tower, three additional towers placed in a triangle and a courtyard closed in by massive walls. Even though part of construction has been demolished in the past, it still remains a magnificent example of bronze age architecture with impressive corridors and circular rooms. From the top of the central tower, still for two thirds intact, there is a wide view of the valley and the various nuraghi towers still visible in the landscape. Around the nuraghe the remains of a village dating back to the bronze age and structures dating back to roman times can be seen. For the sake of visualizing the construction of huts a replica of the bronze age dwelling has been built next to the nuraghe. The nuraghe was positioned strategically along the main north-south track through Sardinia, in roman times transformed to a roman road, still today the main road connecting Sassari to Cagliari. In the valley numerous towers have been built.

The next part of the itinerary follows local roads from the nuraghe to the necropolis of Sant'Andrea Priu in the territory of Bonorva. This necropolis contains some of the finest Domus de Janas of prehistoric times. On the top of the hill a rock has been cut in the shape of a bull of which the head is now missing. Apart from a few magnificent tombes with on the inside the shape of prehistoric longhouses cut out in the ceiling there is one grave that stands out in that it is the largest in extension and in size of the chambers and the richest in decoration. This tomb is closed by a heavy metal door to preserve it and no photography is allowed on the inside. The first chamber has all the characteristics of a vestibule of a Domus de Janas but with additional rectangular graves cut in the floor of early christian times when the tomb was reused. The second chamber still has part of the frescoes, from the period it was reused as a roman tomb. Finally the third chamber contains Byzantine frescoes and an altar since it was transformed into a cave church in the early christian period. The tomb can only be visited with a guide (english speaking).

From Bonorva the itinerary proceeds to Macomer, back to the ss131 and south in the direction of Oristano passing over the highland plateau of Campeda where the largest number of bronze age towers can be found. Just southwest of Macomer lies the archaeological site of Tamuli. This site is particularly interesting because of the six menhirs, three interpreted as having female breasts symbolizing fertility. There are also the remains of three Tombe di Giganti, the large nuraghe and a number of huts, probably of more recent date built as sheds for the shepherds.

Another important archaeological site is just opposite the hospital of Macomer, the necropolis of Filigosa. It is managed by the same cooperation. Macomer is an interesting town of the interior, strategical for the access to the highland plateau's since prehistory, in fact it has been a punic stronghold and the site of the important nuraghe Santa Barbara. This nuraghe can only be reached from the ss131 in the direction of Sassari, there is a small parking lot and a footpath leading to the nuraghe itself.

From Macomer the itinerary proceeds back to Bosa. Just outside Macomer another important nuraghe can be found which is also visitable, nuraghe Succuronis. The road crosses several times the railroad between Macomer and Bosa and then proceeds through Suni back to the valley of the Temo. The railroad ends at Bosa Marina where a small station is. Tickets in summer can be bought here and at Macomer. This ends the itinerary along some of the very interesting archaeological sites of the Sardinian interior.

Circumstances in reality can be different due to specific situations or changes on the roads. See also the disclaimer

San Pietro di Sorres

San Pietro di Sorres

Borutta (SS)

The church of San Pietro di Sorres was built between 1170 and 1200 as a cathedral for the medieval town of Sorres. The church has a bichrome facade with dark basalt and light limestone. In the fifteenth century the town of Sorres was abandoned and the church would remain in disuse until in 1950 Benedictine monks rebuilt the church and built a monastery. The church can be visited.

Necropolis of Filigosa

Necropolis of Filigosa

Macomer (NU)

The necropolis of Filigosa just outside Macomer has given it's name to the culture of Abealzu-Filigosa (2480-1855 BC). The necropolis consists of a number of Domus de Janas with a long shaft cut out of the rock of a hillside. On top of the hill stands the remains of a single tower nuraghe.

Necropolis S. Andrea Priu

Necropolis S. Andrea Priu

Bonorva (SS)

The necropolis of Sant'Andrea Priu consists of a number of Domus de Janas, houses of the fairies. These are articifial caves for burials ranging from small spaces to manhigh complex tombs with a central room and lateral rooms. The most important tomb that can be visited contained also graves of roman times and roman frescoes and it was transformed in an early christian church in the byzantine period with byzantine style frescoes. Unfortunately it is not permitted to take pictures in this magnificent tombe.

Nuraghe Santu Antine

Nuraghe Santu Antine

Torralba (SS)

Nuraghe Santu Antine can be considered one of the most fascinating bronze age constructions of Nuragic Sardinia. The nuraghe consists of one central tower and three additional towers, long corridors and a central courtyard with a waterwell. Around the nuraghe the remains of a nuragic village can be seen, occupied well into the roman period.

Tamuli

Tamuli

Macomer (NU)

The archaeological site of Tamuli is situated on the highland plateau near Macomer, an area with a high density of Bronze Age nuraghi. The site itself consists of a nuraghe, the remains of a settlement and three Tombe di Giganti, and six menhirs.

Bosa

Bosa

Bosa (OR)

Bosa is a town on the river Temo, the only navigable river, for about 6 kilometers, of Sardinia. Here you can see the famous castle of the Malaspina. The origins of Bosa was in punic-roman times near the church of San Pietro, on the leftbank of the river Temo, but in the Middle Ages the population moved near the protective walls of the castle. At the mouth of the river Temo lies Bosa Marina where a large Spanish tower watches over the beach.

Last updated 13/05/2015
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