Tharros - Peninsula of Sinis
 

The peninsula of Sinis has a type of landscape that varies from brackish lagoons, the stagni, to low hillranges. The brackish lagoons have been formed by the deposit of sand carried by the river Tirso from inland Sardinia. At the same time these lagoons are fed by small rivers and now and then rain. Near Cabras the stagni that are open to the sea are rich in fish and waterbirds, while on the north side the stagni closed in completely by land are drying up leaving the water with a very high concentration of salt. This is an ideal habitat for the flamingo's (stagno Sale Porcus). Not only is the land fertile, you may see orchards and cereals grown, there are also exceptionally nice beaches on the west side.

panorama of the peninsula of Sinis

The first part of this route goes from Oristano to San Giovanni di Sinis. The starting point at Oristano is chosen randomly, but anybody visiting the ruins of Tharros will follow the road that passes through the peschiera (fishing station) of Cabras, one of the most important fishing stations on Sardinia that makes use of the yearly migration of the mullet to the brackish water. At Cabras the reknowned bottarga, in english botargo, is produced here. Just beyond the peschiera the road follows the Stagno di Mistras where now and then the flamingo's can be seen. On the right side near the hills a decayed nuraghe stands on a low hilltop. There are many nuraghi on the peninsula of Sinis, most of them reduced to no more than a heap of stones.

San Giovanni di SinisThe first part of the route ends at San Giovanni di Sinis, a small fishermans village now grown into a residential area as well as touristic place with a number of bars and restaurants. There is a large parking lot, and in the summer months a tariff is applied. Up to the entrance of Tharros it is possible to go by car, but it is worthwhile the little trouble to walk from San Giovanni to Tharros. At the foot of the hill some of the characteristical fisherman dwellings, built entirely in reed on a skeleton of wood, are still there. The road follows the sandy dunes up the hill to the entrance of Tharros. On the right the beach of San Giovanni lies a little below while on the left a steep slope climbs up, known as the hill of the Muru Mannu, the large defensive wall of Punic Tharros.

The site of TharrosA visit to the site of Tharros may take you more than an hour and there are guides available to tell about the history of the town. A ticket is valid also for the museum of Cabras. In front of the entrance are large square blocks, foundations of a bastion that was part of the punic walls and towngate of Tharros.

The Spanish tower near San GiovanniBehind that on top of the second hill stands the large Spanish tower. If it is open to the public you will have the opportunity, when it is clear weather, to see out across the gulf of Oristano to the Monte Arci, Capo Frasca, the peninsula itself and the Monti Ferru (Iron mountains) beyond the peninsula.

The road continues towards the cape of San Marco, across a narrow stretch of land and up again to a plateau that forms the cape itself. In sight of the town of Tharros lies the graveyard with the punic chambers, in part crumbled away and since long emptied by archaeologists and graverobbers in search for the famous gold of Tharros. A good walk is possible passing through the macchia mediterranea or you can stay at the seaside on the beach. Mind that there are dangerous currents, especially treacherous near the rocks.

Interior of the church of San Giovanni di SinisThe church of San Giovanni di Sinis is a small early christian structure of the sixth century AD, and one of the oldest in Sardinia. It is built in sandstone with simple but admiring architecture, using a cupola and barrel-vaults. Within the church there is a bassin with a fish carved on the inside, that was used as baptismal font.

The hypogeum of San SalvatoreThe second part of this route will take you to the small village of San Salvatore. This village almost on the edge of the stagno of Cabras, is kept in it's original state because of it's historical value. In the middle of the village is the small church built on top of a very old underground sanctuary (hypogeum). Church and hypogeum can be visited freely, but there are no defined opening times. A visit will take you half an hour to see the hypogeum and admire the many drawings and paintings on the wall that have been left there through the centuries.

The third part will bring you to Cabras, at the Museo Civico Giovanni Marongiu. Although many archaeological finds disappeared in museums elsewhere, Cabras managed to bring together a nice and valuable collection. Important sites for the prehistory of Sardinia are located within the territory of the town of Cabras, Cuccuru S'Arriu (Cuccuru Is Arrius), Monti Prama where large statues of the early Iron age have been found, and ofcourse Tharros itself, just to mention a few.

Not necessarily historical, but nonetheless interesting is the last part, the fourth, to Torre Grande, where you can take a rest and enjoy the comforts. Marina di Torre Grande is located around a Spanish tower and has a long beach, boulevard with palmtrees and a nice view on the Gulf of Oristano.

OristanoWho has left any energy can go shopping in the town of Oristano or pay a visit to the town centre with it's medieval houses that remind the visitors of the glory days of the Giudici. The famous museum Antiquarium Arborense has a unique collection, in part from Tharros but also other sites in the province of Oristano, as well as paintings from a private collection.

(last updated: 08/16/2008 20:46:07)
 

Routes

Tharros - Peninsula of Sinis
S Cristina - Losa - Fordongianus
Sardara - Barumini - Serri