The mountainrange of the Iglesiente on the Sardinian west coast is one of the most inaccessible and least densely populated territories. The Monte Linas, with 1236m, is the highest peak followed by the Monte Lissone (1094m) and the Monte Arcuentu (785m). From antiquity the territory was reknowned for the metal ores, lead and silver, and in the nineteenth century for the rich coalmines. In fact one of the old roman roads passes right through this mountainrange, connecting a number of important places. This roman road is mentioned in the Itinerarium Antonini, a latin manuscript, it starts in Castelsardo in the north of Sardinia and runs across the entire island down to Sant'Antioco (Sulcis) in the south: the via a Tibulas Sulcis. Important places along the road were Bosa, Santa Giusta (Othoca), Santa Maria di Nabui (Neapolis), Fluminimaggiore (Metalla) and the temple of Antas. The itinerary described in this article follows part of this roman road from Oristano, passing through Arbus, down to Iglesias, and passed two sites that deserve a visit: the mines of Montevecchio and the aforementioned temple of Antas. The itinerary finishes in Cagliari and as alternative route from Oristano to Cagliari it is a pleasant panoramic ride, even if it takes more time than the more direct SS131 Carlo Felice.

The lagoons near Marceddì and in the background the mountains of the Iglesiente

Ofcourse it is not necessary to follow the complete route as described here. It is possible to deviate at any point to go to the beautiful beaches of the Costa Verde or to go to the panoramic coast near Buggerru or even to visit Monte Sirai (Carbonia) or Sant'Antioco (the antique Sulcis) instead of continuing the itinerary to Cagliari.

The town of Arborea

The first part of this itinerary goes from Oristano to the mining village of Montevecchio in two stages. It passes through the territory of Arborea, until the twenties of the previous century an area of unhealthy marshes, where malaria was a common disease. These marshes have been drained before the Second World war and nowadays it is a very fertile countryside and it has one of the most productive agricultural communities of Sardinia. Frisian pedigree cows produce milk for one of the largest dairy factories of Sardinia. Arborea was built in the twenties and thirties of the previous century and was formerly known under the name Mussolinia. The waterlevel is regulated through hydraulic pumps, just like the Dutch polders.

From Arborea, passing through the territory of Terralba, the itinerary proceeds to Guspini located at the feet of the mountainrange of the Iglesiente. From Guspini it follows a secondary road to the mining village of Montevecchio, in the middle of the forests on the slopes of the mountains. It is possible to visit one of the mines in Montevecchio, but you will have to make reservations by telephone first. From Montevecchio the secondary road will continue along the slopes of the Monte Arcuentu to the magnificent beaches of the Costa Verde. These beaches can also be reached using the bridge across the lagoon of San Giovanni near Marceddì.

The Anglosarda mine
at Montevecchio

However in the third part the itinerary returns to Guspini and follows the road up the mountains of the Iglesiente to Arbus. The road climbs the steep slope offering wide panoramic views of the below Campidano and even beyond to the mountainranges of inland Sardinia. Guspini and Arbus, reknowned for a typical knife with broad blade called arburese, are towns of the province of Medio Campidano. From Arbus the itinerary follows the orginal roman road down to Fluminimaggiore. All around the highland plain are the mountain peeks and the panoramic views are beautiful, especially in springtime with the blooming brushes of the macchia. Just before Fluminimaggiore a crossroad will lead to Buggerru on the westcoast while the itinerary continues to the left.

The valley of the Antas
and the punic-roman temple

Fluminimaggiore, the Roman Metalla, is a small town in the middle of the mountains. There is a small museum of the territory. From this town it is not so far to the valley of the site of the temple of Antas. The provincial road is offers beautiful views of the country, it runs in part along the valley of the rio Antas. Indications show where to turn left to reach the visitors center of the temple. The archeological site includes the temple itself, dedicated to Sardus Pater, and the remains of a nuragic village. The surroundings with wooded slopes around the green valley are an ideal environment for long walks, for example to the caves of Su Mannau, a roman quarry and along parts of the original roman road. Itineraries are set out with clear indications and in the visitors centre more information can be obtained.

For the last part the itinerary proceeds from the temple of Antas to Cagliari, through the valley of the rio Cixerri. Ofcourse this can be changed to return to Oristano following the SS130 and the SS131 or to proceed to the site of Monte Sirai (Carbonia) and Sant'Antioco (former Sulki or Sulcis) or even to go to the southcoast, to Pula. The itinerary can also be inversed, starting at Cagliari and going north to Oristano.